The municipality of Argao rests in the southern portion of the province of Cebu. Since its founding as a town in 1608, Argao has grown from a sleepy fishing and farming town to a tourist destination today with many promises. As modernization and fast-paced developments happen to more and more municipalities in the province of Cebu, Argao strives to catch up with the strings of changes happening around the Philippine islands, proving to the rest of the country what it is worth, but also very mindful of its rich socio-cultural and environmental heritage, making certain that whatever change happens the identity of Argao for which it is known is still preserved, thus ensuring that the future generations can still view Argao in all its historic splendor. Argao has always been described as one of the most interesting places in the province and in the past it was known for its public stone buildings roofed with tiles. Argao remains one of the few towns in the country that still has traces of Spanish and early-American influences.This is evident not only from its old church, but also from its venerable houses made of tisa, which is said to have been imported straight from Spain. These include eighteenth century houses and buildings to age-old socio-economic activities and livelihoods that started during the Spanish era, or even farther than that. A walk in the poblacion proper would undoubtedly allow anyone a glimpse of what has been. Aside from its historicity, Argao is also blessed with an abundance of nature’s attractions, from beaches with pristine water and white sand, deep and intricate caving systems where only a portion has been explored by cave experts, to majestic and lush-green forests seated at the top of Argao’s famed Mt. Lantoy, where also an abundance of rare wildlife reside.
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Monday, September 8, 2008
ABOUT ARGAO
GEOGRAPHY OF ARGAO
The municipality of Argao is located at the southeastern portion of the province of Cebu, approximately 68 kilometers from the City of Cebu. Argao is exactly between Cebu City and the southern tip of the island. It is approximately 26 Km from Carcar, from Alcoy, and from Lo-on which is across the Bohol Strait. The rectangle that is Argao (approximately 20 X 40 Km) is bounded, clockwise, in the west by Badian, Alcantara, Ronda, and Dumanjug; in the north by Sibonga; in the east by the Bohol Strait; and in the south by Dalaguete. Aside from the Poblacion proper are 44 barangays which are, clockwise, Tulic, Bogo, Talaga, and Casay; then Balisong, Cambantug, Bala-as, and Linut-od; then Butong, Cansuje, and Tulang; then Anajao, Apo, Mompeller, Lengigon, Colawin, Gutlang, Langub, and Sumaguan; then Guiwanon, Taloot, Bulasa, Binlod, and Langtad. Inner barrios are Alambijud, Uba-ub, Capio-an, Mandilikit, Mabasa, Jampang, then Usmad, Catang, Panadtaran, Jomgao, Talaytay, Canbanua, and Lamacan; and finally the southern group of Calagasan, Conalum, Tabayag, Lapay, Tiguib, and Bug-ot.
Going to Argao is easy and relatively convenient now since the national road has undergone vast improvements recently, ensuring a safe and faster travel to the southern portion of Cebu. Traveling time to Argao takes approximately an hour and a half to two hours, depending on the traffic situation. Around the town, one can ride motorcycles (tricycles and habal-habal), trisikads, and jeepneys.
HISTORICAL ARGAO
Brief history of the town. The town of Argao is considered as one of the oldest towns in the province of Cebu, having been founded by the Spaniards and established as a pueblo in the year 1608. But prior to the arrival of the Spaniards, what was then Argao was composed of several families that lived mainly by fishing and farming, as many still do today. According to stories passed on from generation to generation, the name of the town was derived from an abundantly-growing plant in the area, known locally as “Sali-argaw”. The story of Argao’s name is very much like many other localities in the Philippines that derived their names from popular flora or fauna found in the area. As the story goes, a delegation of Spanish officials came to the town and asked a villager, some say a fisherman, what the name of the town was. Obviously, not comprehending the foreign tongue, the man presumed that the Spaniard was referring to the “Sali-argaw” plants in the area, as the Spaniards were waving their arms to mean the entire place. With this, the fisherman simply said “Sali-argaw”, and from that moment on the Spaniards christened the area as el pueblo de Argao.
Extant records pertaining to the establishment of Argao as a town go only as far as the middle eighteenth century, when the Augustinians started building the church in Argao, later named after St. Michael the Archangel. Indeed, prior to 1730, there have been no more written records that have survived to this day that can pinpoint to the 1608 founding of the town
According to church records, the church of Argao was founded on October 16, 1733. Another source says that Argao began as an encomienda and that the Argao parish was founded on May 17, 1734. It places Ignacio Olalde, OSA, as its first parish priest. The church tower or belfry was built upon the orders of Bishop Santos Gomez de Marañon (Bishop of Cebu 1829 - 1840).
Because Argao was opened as a commercial port in the last portion of the 19th century and because of the establishment by Philippine Railway Co. of a train system from the city to Argao in the South and Danao in the North, mainly for the transport of coal to the city, the population of Argao during the time of Mayor Antonio Miñoza (1914-1917) surged to about 61,000. But when he was appointed as Deputy Governor of Sulu and Mindanao under Governor Guingona of the Bureau of Non-Christians, he encouraged the Argawanons to migrate to Cotabato and Davao. Enticed by the promise of owning vast fertile lands, thousands went to Mindanao, causing the population to drop more than half and leaving many houses vacant. The first town executive during the American regime was Capitan Juan Lucero. The first president was Alejandro RuizOne of the best things to do when you are in Argao is to take a tour around the old pueblo. The main poblacion of Argao remains one of the reminders of Spanish influence in Cebu. Although many of the houses in the main pueblo are already post-World War II structures, some can still boast of having been built during the last century of Spanish rule, and there is one remaining 18th century house that is called by people in the town as the “balay na tisa”, aptly named so because of its clay roof. The old municipal building is also made of the same structure as this old house, and indeed this structure is perhaps one of the remaining old municipal buildings in the province of Cebu. The following buildings and structures are places one can visit if doing a tour around the pueblo:
San Miguel Archangel Parish Church and Convent. Argao became a parish in 1703, which prompted the construction of a beautiful rococo-baroque church structure in 1734 and was completed in 1788. A good number of religious artifacts have remained in the church. Dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, there are more than 20 figures of angels sculpted on its brass-studded portals. The altar (retablo) of the church is still the original. The church was renovated for its bicentennial celebration in 1988, and its outer walls were scraped. Despite some renovations and modernizations done to it, the San Miguél Archangel Parish still remains one of the richly furnished churches in the South. There is a convent that was used primarily as a seminary during the mid-1900s. This two-level structure is known to be one of the highly ornate churches in the island. Together with the convent and other older buildings in the area, it is a dominant structure in the town. Very prominent on its flat façade is the articulated carving of the parish patron saint. Oversized urn-like finials standing on a rectangular base on the corner of the church provides a decorative element.
The unique ceiling of the Church. Its church is with unusual ceilings of canvass painted all over with religious motifs. On the ceiling are murals done by two of the best church muralists during that time (early 20th century). The first portion portraying biblical manifestations of angels was done by the famous artist Canuto Avila. The other portion by the altar was done by Reynaldo Francia and depicts the victory of St. Michael over Lucifer and his followers. This can be seen above the altar and is done in tinting color.
The Pipe Organ of Argao. Aside from the unique murals, Argao is also blessed with another treasure that is considered rare throughout the Philippines. The Church of Argao is possessed of one of the remaining 14 Spanish era pipe organs, and is one of the three towns in the whole Cebu province to still have this instrument. The pipe organ of Argao, though today no longer useable, is estimated by many historians to have been built between the 17th to the 19th century. Organs built in this period were of typical Spanish Baroque style except for the ones built during the last part of the 19th century which are Neo Gothic in style. But all of them are constructed in the reliable Mechanical Action, also known as the Tracker Action. It is a great possibility that Argawanons took a great part in building their pipe organ along with Spanish or Mexican Organ-builders. According to the study done by Mr. Hans Gerd Klais of Johannes Klais Orgelbau of Bonn, Germany, who published his research in one of the volumes of Acta Organologica, as late as 1977 the organ was still in good condition. Professional organ makers describe Argao’s organ as having “windchests constructed from a massive solid wood. Channels were patiently carved out of the massive Narra wood. There are two windchest blocks connected by lead tubes to accommodate all the stops. It has some similarities with the casework of the pipe organ of San Agustin in Manila. Three round towers with the biggest in the middle. Three towers are separated with flat field of pipes. Also, it has white naturals and black sharps of ebony wood and toe pedals, and has a wedge bellow with 4 folds supplied by a 1 fold wedge pump bellow.” Unfortunately, no records in the church exist to show who played the organ, though according to some residents, after the 2nd World War Mr. Juan Calledo played the instrument and a certain Noy Ino was tasked to pump the organ. Further research with shed more light to the matter.
The Argao Museum. Through the initiative of one of Argao’s most loved residents, Monsignor Elias Matarlo, the Argao Museum was constructed in 1999 in order to house what was left of the church’s priceless antiques, and also to showcase the religious artifacts and icons of families who have decided to let the museum safe-guard their family heirlooms. Inside the museum one can see old and elaborate vestments worn by Spanish friars, beautiful and antique religious icons, many of which were imported from Spain, hand written musical notes that were used during the Spanish era, and many more.
The Bantay Hari. In order to keep away foreign invaders from having the opportunity of a surprise attack, and in order to ensure the peace and quiet of the town, several watchtowers were built strategically around the church perimeters and near Lawis, Looc. Guards were assigned here to keep watch day and night. These structures were build primarily to defend the church complex. The one with the circular plan, and as its ruins today show, utilized river stones set in mortar.
Church Plaza, The Site of the Former Palacio, Morgue/Chapel. Late in the afternoon, it would always be best to sit on one of the benches distributed around the plaza and enjoy a beautiful sunset. Visible also in this area is the former “Palacio”, the temporary residence of church dignitaries from Manila or Cebu City who came to Argao to visit. Also, sadly located at the back of the Kintanar Memorial Hospital, is the Church morgue, a very old structure that was build around the early 1800’s. Its primary purpose was as a half-way house for the dead from the far-flung areas of Argao: whenever a family arrives in the poblacion way before sunrise, the morgue served as a temporary resting place for the cadaver before it was eventually placed inside the church for its final rites. Later on, it served as an autopsy area for those who died tragically during the early American regime.
Historical Structures and Places
Around Argao, other than the buildings with religious significance, are old stone and wooden structures that remain a stark reminder of Spanish and early American presence. These include hospital buildings, schools, government buildings, houses, and other structures worth mentioning. These structures worth visiting are the following: the site of the Former Maternity House, which was recently torn down so that its space could be occupied by the municipal government, where the legislative building now stands; The Municipal Building (Casa Real), which was built around the time of the foundation of the pueblo, and remains perhaps the only clay-tiled Spanish era municipal building still in use in the province of Cebu; Another historical building found inside the pueblo is the AFTA building which is being rehabilitated to serve as the Hall of Justice. Bantay Hari at Lawis, which, like those surrounding the church complex, was built to keep watch of Moro pirates.
Old houses also dot the main portion of the poblacion, as well as along the national highway. Although many of these houses are already in disrepair, most, if not all, can still be salvaged if the owners or the municipal government start to restore these venerable structures. The remaining old houses in Argao range from those built in the 1700’s up to the middle of the twentieth century. Topping the list of old houses is the “Balay na Tisa”, aptly called because of its tisa or terracotta and clay roof tiles. There seems to be some confusion as to the origin of this edifice; some say that it used to be the property of the Jesuits due to some carvings on the exterior of the house that may pinpoint to Jesuit influence. However, according to the Lucero family, the original owners of this house, it was built around the time of the building of the church of Argao, sometime in the middle eighteenth century. The Tisa House is the only remaining eighteenth century house that is still intact and being used. The other old houses include: the Socorro Villafuerte Kintanar House, which was built sometime in the middle nineteenth century as a wedding gift for Maria Lucero Cabrera and Cayetano Gumila, a Spaniard. The Calledo and the Gaudilla Regis Houses, both built in the middle nineteenth century and were known as hablonans, or where female Argawanons did their weaving; the Alacrez House, built in the 1880’s and which used to serve as a tabacallera; the Ruiz-Diaz House, built in the middle of the nineteenth century; the Alex K. Gonzales House, built in late 1800’s which played host to a gasoline company TEXACO, beer warehouse, and an ice plant before it was transformed into its present form, Alex Kafé; The other notable houses are the houses of Francisca Peña (1940’s), Alexandra Kintanar (1940’s), Atty. Kintanar (1940’s), Katalino Kintanar (1920’s), Redempta Kinatanar (1950’s), Camillo Semilla (1905), Aguilar family (1890’s), Precilla Lucero (1880’s), and the Padilla family (1900’s).
After a tour around the main pueblo, visiting these old houses and buildings, one could almost feel like being back in the Spanish era.
SOCIO-CULTURAL ARGAO
Aside from these age-old houses and building that truly manifest the historicity of the town of Argao; there are also several very venerable social activities that are still being practiced in modern-day Argao. Some of these activities include indigenous livelihood that predated the arrival of the Spaniards. Two livelihoods that are common throughout the archipelago are fishing and farming, the primary source of income of most families prior to and during the Spanish era. These two livelihoods are still prevalent today and visitors to Argao can make arrangements to stay with and observe some of the farming and fishing families. Then, of course, there are also two other very famous and unique industries in Argao. These are, of course, the baking of traditional delicacies like Torta de Argao, borowas, podrida, and tableya. The other surviving traditional craft is weaving or hablon..
It is said that no house in Argao is complete during fiestas without a torta, and indeed many households even make their own tortas during fiesta. While the torta-making business used to be a popular livelihood in Argao, most households prefer to make these only during special occasions, and for those who still engage in selling torta, most of these prefer to have the tortas pre-ordered. The most popular torta-maker in Argao today, known not only because of her delicious traditional ingredients used but also because her torta is baked in the traditional clay oven. She remains the only year-round seller of torta and is perhaps one of the very last Argawanons to still follow the traditional process of baking the delicacy, is Mrs. Aniceta “Chitang” Camello. Nang Chitang said that this is also a family tradition. A visit in Argao would never be complete without a stop-over at Chitang’s Torta.
Tableya, Today, many households and stalls in the public market make and sell this delicious Cebuano delicacy. Indeed, it is said that no breakfast in Cebu is complete without the hot sikuwate, or hot chocolate, which is made from cacao. The tableya-making industry of Argao is indeed traced to a time when only legends were available to explain the origin of things. According to well-guarded stories in Argao, the cultivation of cacao was a common source of livelihood of many indigenous Argawanons in the past. The most popular tableya maker in the town today is Mrs. Miguela “Guilang” Lanoton, whose house in Canbanua serves also as the site of tableya production. According to her, their family started with small-scale production until they decided to commercialize this art in 1948.
As already mentioned earlier, the other indigenous livelihood that still exists in Argao is the hablon or weaving industry. If one goes through the old records of the church, one would notice that most women during the Spanish era were listed as tejedoras or weavers and were engaged in hablon-making. Indeed, older Argawanon women still recall that their grandmothers, and their grandmothers before them, made the finest hablons that were sold not just to the principalia in the town but also to elite families in Cebu City. A visit to any of the remaining hablonans in the town is easy to arrange, and one can see just how intricate and complex the procedure is in making one simple towel or sheet. Today, some of the weavers in Argao have branched out of the town and sell their products to hotels and resorts. So the next time you buy a towel from a hotel or resort, you just might be holding one that was made in Argao.
There are also some other traditional, albeit not as old, industries that thrive in Argao. These include tuba/bahalina-making, wood-carving
Aside from these activities, which provide income to the residents of Argao, there are also some activities that, though also observable in other localities, are worth looking for when one visits Argao. Year round activities include, but are not limited to, guided panginhas, or shell-gathering, if ones pursuit is that of a quiet and serene afternoon. Any fishing family will be very glad to show your way around the beach and guide you in panginhas; tigabakay or cock-fighting, a little bit different from the usual cock-fighting sport done inside a gymnasium or arena. The tigbakay involves pitting fighting cocks in the streets. Of course the famous tabo-tabo. Take advantage of extremely cheap merchandise by going to the tabo-tabo at the Mercado sa Argao. These tabos boast of fresh fruits and vegetables, livestock, household wares, clothes, and many more.
Walking, hiking, jogging, or plain sight-seeing are simple pursuits than can be done within the vicinity of the Poblacion and surrounding barangays. Enjoy a walk around Don Gil Gardens, a long stretch of road going to Argao Nature Park perfect for early morning or late afternoon jogging or walking, or even picnics. Enjoy watching the sunrise or sunset in wide open space of the rice fields, and get a chance to watch wild egrets feeding. Argao Nature Park is also another perfect destination for those with quiet pleasures. Walk under big trees or sit by the lagoon area while watching different and some rare birds around the park. Nearby Argao you can visit the "Riverstone Castle", considered as the “only authentic castle in Cebu. The Castle is made up of stones collected from the nearby river and was constructed using authentic castle-building procedures. Outside the castle, there’s a mini zoo, a collection of monkeys, snakes, rabbits, civets, and other unique animals.
There are also other socio-cultural activities that are done in certain times of the year. These are the Fiesta activities and the celebration of the Holy Week, which showcases the traditional aspects of this Lenten activity to include the colorful procession on Holy Wednesday and Friday. A sugat play is also conducted by the church on the dawn of Easter Sunday.
One can also participate in street-dancing or bayle, many of which are held by the barangays of Argao during their respective fiestas spread throughout the year. If you’re in Argao during one of the barangay fiestas, be sure to attend the bayle so you’ll see how Argawanons party!
NATURAL/ENVIRONMENTAL ARGAO
If you enjoy quiet activities, then Argao is one place that you definitely need to visit. From serene and pristine beaches to almost virgin forests and cave systems, romantics and adventure-seekers alike surely would find a visit to Argao both rewarding and worthwhile.
The beaches in Argao, prominent among which are the Lawis Beach, or South Beach, Central Beach, and North beach, are perfect for swimming, diving, snorkeling, and skim-boarding. One can also simply walk on the fine sand of the beaches and enjoy a beautiful sunset or sunrise, or preferably both. Aside from the quiet pursuit of walking on the beach, one can also engage in fish-feeding in the ten fish sanctuaries of the different coastal barangays. Whatever one’s desire is, Argao’s clean and safe beaches and seas truly provide a calming and relaxing experience that should not be missed if one is in town for a visit.
If your adventure is what one has in mind, then a trip to the Argao/Lantoy National Park is definitely a must. Going to Mt. Lantoy, Argao’s second highest peak, involves many exciting and challenging activities, including the Usmad River-trekking, a visit to Bugasok Falls, and of course conquering one’s fears and getting inside the Balay sa Agta Caves. Mt. Lantoy is the domain of Maria Cacao and Mangao. Their legend provides a rather quaint and romantic appeal to this particular mountain. Mt. Lantoy hs two known openings: the northern entrance popularly known as the “Balay sa Agta” or the house of the giant (agta) occupying that portion of Mangao’s kingdom. Here lie large quantities of guano, or bat droppings. This portion of the cave was used by guerillas fighters as a base camp for captured Japanese collaborators during World War II. The other side is the southern entrance.
Indeed, the cave system of Mt. Lantoy is one of the most famous sites for dedicated spelunkers. Many destinations companies list cave explorations in Mt. Lantoy as one of the top ten to do things in Cebu.
Mt Lantoy is located around 10 km inland from the town of Argao. Mt Lantoy is naturally bounded by the Argao River. It is part of the Southern Cebu Reforestation Project Area, which also covers some of the adjacent hills and the banks of the river. The upper slopes of Mt Lantoy still have some low secondary forest and dense scrub, typical of dry karst limestone conditions. There are some low old-growth trees remaining around the peak at c.500 m and some tall dipterocarp trees at c.300 m on the slopes above the Argao River. The total forest area there is estimated at c.300 ha. Most of the surrounding low-lying areas are covered with farmland, agroforestry, secondary growth and reforested areas, planted with exotic trees such as mahogany, falcata, gmelina and acacia. The Argao River cuts a narrow gorge below Mt Lantoy, and many figs Ficus sp. and some sparse scrub grow precariously on the sheer cliffs c.200 m above the river. There are numerous large limestone caves in the cliffs.
Recently, Mt. Lantoy has become one of the protected areas in southern Cebu, because of the lush flora and fauna unique to the Area. Mt Lantoy indeed is critically important for conservation, because there are so few significant areas of forest remaining in the Cebu Endemic Bird Area (EBA). Many of the endemic subspecies of Cebu have been recorded in the IBA, and there are recent records of Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala cebuensis, Elegant Tit Parus elegans visayanus, White-vented Whistler Pachycephala homeyeri major and Everett’s White-eye Zosterops everetti everetti from Mt Lantoy. Recent records of Colasisi Loriculus philippensis at Mt Lantoy may refer to the Cebu endemic L. p. chrysonotus or to escaped birds brought to Cebu from other islands. Possible records of a species of Bleeding-heart Gallicolumba sp. on Mt Lantoy are particularly intriguing.
Mt Lantoy supports many other interesting animals and plants which require further study. The caves on Mt Lantoy shelter a dozen or so species of bats, to include the very rare insect eating wrinkled lip bats. There is a great diversity of invertebrates at Mt Lantoy, such as Swallowtail Butterflies Papilio sp. and Birdwings Troides sp. Mid-montane forests have not been well studied on Cebu in the past.
The municipal government of Argao has recently become interested in developing a plan to help manage that remaining forests on Mt Lantoy. It has been proposed that Mt Lantoy should be designated as a national park. The Argao government also has plans for ecotourism development on Mt Lantoy, in order to provide an alternative and sustainable source of funds for its protection.
The Mystic mountains of Argao- Unexpectedly when you go to mountains or bundoks you will be surprised by both site and tales of the mountain. The Rice terraces of Barangay Linut-od and Butong, cultivated even in middle of summer. See the different stages of cultivation of rice. These terraces are feed by a big spring that irrigates the rice fields. After a hike up and down the terrace you can dip take a dip in the cold-water pool of the spring under the protection of the 200 year old balete tree.
Another mountain range, though not as explored as Mt. Lantoy’s, is that of Binalabag. Fisherfolks in the past are said to have depended on this landmark as a beacon when fishing late at night or early in the morning. It is a dry, stony mountain so very few people live here. But over the centuries certain stories have also been linked to this mountain. According to legends, Binalabag was the home of a golden horse (sometimes said to have included a golden cat) which went to church every early morning. As the story goes, the golden horse had an intricate passageway from Binalabag going directly out to the church altar. This story simply serves as a romantic tale that can be attributed to this still to be explored mountain.
Indeed, Argao is blessed with such great wealth. Aside from these, the plateau of Cansuje is fertile and perfect for vegetable production while Linot-od is similar to Dalaguete with prevailing cool climate. Such climate might remind one of almost being in Baguio. And, just like Baguio, Linot-od also boasts of having a mini-rice terrace system, similar to those in the Cordilleras. Linot-od, together with Calagasan and Bala-as, is a good source for coal, and small-scale mining operation exist here. Conalum is blessed with a climate and soil that grow wild lanzones. These lanzones bear fruit especially during the last quarter of the year, and the lanzones of Conalum surpasses the sweetness of those from Mambajao.
Mangrove forests, both natural and man-made, are also interesting places to explore. Get a chance to see birds like egret and terns feeding in the mudflat areas adjacent to these mangrove areas. Crabs, sea cucumber and fry of different kinds of fishes and marine organism abound in these mangrove forests.
Some residents also involve themselves in productive and helpful endeavors, such as Organic farming, which barangay Capitan Erning of Tabayag is known for; Colawin can boast of innovating farming systems and structures thanks mainly to the introduction of these by Dr. Romulo G. Davide. These irrigation facilities have also greatly helped neighboring barangays. Wood and stone crafting are also done in Suba and Calagasan.
While Argao still has many more challenges to meet, it still promises to be a very great tourist destination. With an abundance of heritage and natural splendors, coupled with innovative, progressive-minded, and hard-working residents and leaders, Argao is indeed going to be a major tourist haven in the years to come.